Archery is the national sport of Bhutan, and we finally got the opportunity to try the simple traditional bow and arrows on a much shortened version of the range, marked by colourful flags. Tim also tried the darts, to great success and much acclaim from our host and guide Neten. They were ready to sign Tim up for the serious competition in the capital of Thimphu.
We were staying at Soednam Zingkha a beautifully restored heritage farmhouse run as a boutique lodge by the original family. Our host joined us at the archery range and took a shot himself. Then we started talking about the dark rocky mountains that loomed over us.
‘Tibet is just over there,’ he waved towards the west.
‘How far is it to the border?’ I asked.
‘Oh about two days walk.’
I was delighted that even for an urbane man such as this distance is still measured in how many days to walk, and that it is the only way to make that journey.
The Haa Valley is the westernmost valley in Bhutan, and getting there involves a drive over the highest sealed mountain pass in the country – Chele La – a dizzying (quite literally for those of us still acclimatising to the altitude) just-under-4000m.
It truly dawned on me then that the nation of Bhutan is just a collection of small settlements spread along the few flat bottomed valleys available, connected by winding switchback roads going over steep mountain passes.
