Reykjavik to Napoli felt like a good natured slap to the face. From Nordic reserve and order to Southern Mediterranean chaos in just a few hours. We imagined that for an Icelander, coming to Southern Italy must be the equivalent of an Australian going to SE Asia. And the similarities just continued to accumulate.
The traffic mayhem, the noise, the road rules being merely guidelines, the very relaxed atitudes towards rubbish and litter, the many people just hanging out in piazzas just shooting the breeze (have to say though this is 95% men – another similarity), the dominance of tiny hole in the wall shops, the extremely relaxed attitudes towards schedules and time, the way the apparently organically evolved urban landscape is all jumbled and jostled together with so many layers of history evident. In all these ways it is so similar to SE Asia and so unlike the calm serene order of Iceland.
Amongst the mayhem of Napoli were oases of beauty and calm like the cloisters of Chiesa Santa Chiara.
Our time here has been too brief with just a couple of nights here and there. I have been feeling like the most fickle of serial monogamists – falling passionately in love over and over again. Iceland completely stole my heart then Napoli did in a completely different way, then it was the turn of the Amalfi coast, then rural Calabria, then the Baroque towns of SE Sicily which I have fallen heavily for one after another.
And the food! Early autumn harvest time – the tomatoes have ripened red and luscious.
We’re both feeling fat from all the incredible food but also fit thanks to all the walking and particularly the endless endless stairs. Even on our first day in Napoli we gravitated towards the highest point and climbed hundreds of stone steps and wilted in the warmth.
Then of course to the Amalfi coast where steps canot be avoided but the payoff in views is incredible. Everyday we hiked in the hills – firstly on the Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods).
Then from Minori up to molto bello Ravello, site of ancient villas and stuning gardens.
Then from Minori to Maiori along the Sentieri dei Limone – through all the lemon groves.
There was remarkably little swiming for two ocean lovers. From afar the ocean was beguilingly blue and inviting but up close it was a little murky after recent rain. We decided instead to make the most of what we don’t have at home. Like expensive water-taxis with white faux leather seats that make you feel briefly like the rich and famous. (We actually only splurged like that once and travelled on the amazing public ferries apart from that).
It was difficult to leave the Amalfi coast and we particularly loved the mellow friendliness of Minori but two nights at an Agriturismo amongst olive groves in Calabria was our consolation.
As was being picked up from the train station by Simone who had only a little more English than I have Italian. It is the only language of which I know more than please and thank you but truly it is pitiful especially with the difficulty I have in rolling my Rs. This is tricky in such situations as asking for no meat (carne) but instead asking for no cane (dog). Most conversations here turn quickly to English because the Italian person’s English is nearly always going to be so much better than my Italian! So being stuck together on a 30 min car ride was ideal because Simone and I had to work hard at communicating with a dictionary, guestures and our small amount of shared vocabulary.